How to spend three days in the Lizard
Mainland Britain’s most southerly point, the Lizard peninsula, has something for everyone. This far flung, impossibly pretty region – most of it is an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) – has miles of coast and countryside, some of the nicest and lesser known beaches in Cornwall, some completely unique wildlife and a rich smuggling history. It also has two distinct characters: cute villages and little coves nestled on the sheltered east side, while the wild and tough beauty of the west side faces the full force of the south-westerly prevailing winds. Whether you want an action-packed family holiday full of surfing, wild swimming and coasteering or a calm and peaceful place to walk and marvel at the heaths and cliffs home to astonishing flora and fauna, the Lizard is a special place to visit and explore. Read on to discover what to see, where to go and what to eat and drink in our guide to spending three days in the Lizard.
Day 1: Poldhu, Poldark and Porthleven
For your first day, take in some of those stunning Cornish views. Head to the Poldhu Beach Cafe, where your morning coffee will be served with gorgeous vistas of the west coast at all times of year, whether it’s a raging gale in winter or sparkling blue seas in summer. If you have children in tow, stay for the day: play on Poldhu Cove’s sandy beach or give surfing a go. Lessons, boards and wetsuits are available at Dan Joel Surf School.
If you’re in the mood for a stomp, head on from Poldhu Cove along the South West Coast Path to Church Cove, another quiet sandy beach. Call in at medieval St Winwaloe, known as the ‘church of the storms’, tucked behind the dunes. Eighteenth-century churchwardens’ accounts show that sand had to be regularly removed from the churchyard due to the ferocious weather. Also known as Gunwalloe cove, it relived its smuggling past when Aidan Turner descended to film night-time ship wrecking scenes for Poldark. From here, climb the path towards Gunwalloe village and have lunch at the friendly 15th-century Halzephron Inn, which has plenty of outside space, splendid views and a fascinating smuggling past.
After lunch, pop up to Flambards in Helston for some family fun at a Victorian village, a Britain in the Blitz exhibition and some outdoor rides. You could also head to Penrose, a 1,500 acre National Trust estate for some woodland walks, or carry on up the coast to Porthleven, a lively fishing port near Helston. It has good shopping, great places to eat and is a popular surf spot – watch the intrepid locals brave the waves on a big swell. Browse the craft market on the harbour (open Tuesdays to Sundays from April to October), pop into the Customs House, a little gallery showcasing Cornish artists, such as Heather Howe, or sample local gin Curio – flavoured with foraged rock samphire – at the Shipyard Market. Stay for dinner in Porthleven – you’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to food. Try the Mussel Shoal, a laid-back spot on the harbour serving moules-frites, squid and chowder, or explore the pubs, including the 17th-century Ship Inn, which has great views of the harbour and a terraced beer garden. If you’re after something fancy, try Kota, an award-winning restaurant that pairs the best Cornish produce with an Asian twist.
Day 2: Cornish seals, Coverack and Cadgwith
Start your second day exploring the eastern coast of the Lizard. (If you’ve come with a car, most of these highlights can be reached on the L1, 34 and 36 bus routes). Children and adults alike will love the Cornish Seal Sanctuary in Gweek, which rescues, rehabilitates and releases about 70 seal pups a year. It also has some permanent residents, including grey and common seals, sea lions, otters and penguins, an underwater viewing area, daily feeds and talks, a children’s play area, woodland walks and stunning River Helford views.
For lunch, head to Helford, a picturesque riverside village with a ferry carrying passengers between pubs on either riverbank. Try the Shipwrights Arms on the Helford side and the Ferry Boat Inn in the Helford Passage. Or head to South Cafe in the nearby pretty village of Mannacan.
Carry on to St Keverne, with its pretty village square; Coverack, a fishing village with a lovely little harbour and a rocky beach; and Cadgwith, a gorgeous fishing hamlet with brightly painted boats and thatched cottages. Lizard Adventure runs activities from Cadgwith, from wild swimming and coasteering to surfing, sea kayaking and paddle boarding. Replenish your energy supplies with dinner at Cadgwith Cove Inn, an old smugglers’ haunt.
Day 3: Mullion, Kynance Cove and Lizard Point
You’re on holiday – why not start the day with chocolate? Kids will love the Chocolate Factory and Craft Centre in Mullion, where you can watch the chocolatiers tempering Belgian chocolate to create all sorts of sweet treats. You can taste the end product, too, and browse a variety of craft shops. Walk off the chocolate at Mullion Cove and its tiny harbour. Climb up the other side to see cliffs carpeted in Cornish heath (a pale purple heather, which grows nowhere else in Britain), campion, hairy greenweed and wild orchids, bees and butterflies. You might spot a red-billed, red-legged Cornish chough or peregrines. Make you way back to Mullion for homemade pies and scotch eggs at the thatched Old Inn pub.
You can’t visit the Lizard without taking in the wonder of Kynance Cove: a breathtaking bay of white sand, turquoise sea and serpentine rock stacks. It’s best visited out of season and at low tide, when you can explore the caves, which have delightfully twee Victorian names, such as the Ladies’ Bathing Pool, the Parlour and the Drawing Room. Refresh yourself at the solar-panelled, turfed‑roofed eco cafe on Kynance beach, which serves freshly prepared food, smoothies, milkshakes and a wide selection of cold and hot drinks.
From Kynance, head down to Lizard Point, as far south as you can go in mainland Britain. Pop into Polpeor Cafe, ‘Britain’s most southerly cafe’ for a pasty, then climb the 250-year-old Lizard Lighthouse, and take in the far-reaching views. Learn about how the lighthouse works, navigation and light sources before consolidating everything you’ve learned over some Cornish ale and a very local seafood supper at the Witchball in Lizard village.