The insider’s guide to Bodmin Moor
Bodmin Moor is Cornwall in the raw. It’s rich in archaeology, ancient standing stones, forests, wildlife, windswept walks, craggy hills and folklore galore. As well as the ravishing landscape, there’s plenty of elbow room unlike the (relatively) more crowded Cornish coastline. You won’t be completely alone though – there’s also plenty of bustling pubs with fires to warm the cockles. Nature, space and an ethereal wildness you won’t find anywhere else – here’s our insider’s guide to Bodmin Moor.
Don’t miss…
The Cheesewring and the Hurlers
The strange Cheesewring rock formation is well worth a visit. It looks like a giant stack of plates and takes its name from the process used to create cider by pressing bags of apples, also known as cheeses, together. Cornish folklore says it was created by ancient druids, but it’s far more likely that weather erosion shaped the rock into its current form than magic!
You’ll see the Hurlers on the way, probably the best examples of ceremonial circles in the South West. According to legend, they are the remains of men petrified for playing hurling on a Sunday.
Head to the village of Minions on the south side of Bodmin Moor and park in one of the two car parks. Head north. For the best views of the Cheesewring, approach it from the left, western side.
Where to walk
The Two Valleys
A favourite Bodmin Moor walk is the Two Valleys, a circular route around St Neot taking in the beautiful River Fowey, Berry Down and ancient woodlands. Drink in the stunning view from the top of Berry Down and sit among the remains of the ancient huts on the south side of the downs while listening to birdsong.
Cardinham Woods
This gorgeous mixed woodland offers trails that take you deep into the woods. There are paths for both walkers and cyclists. Stop off at the child-friendly Woods Cafe for unbelievably good home-made cakes.
Rough Tor
Head to Rough Tor (pronounced ‘row’, as in argument, not boat) for an accessible and rewarding trek with stunning views. Enjoy sensational scenery at the summit: north over to the coast of the Atlantic, and south to the High Moor.
Brown Willy
Stop sniggering at the back! The funny name belies an intrepid hike so wear sensible shoes, take water and don’t forget waterproof coats for the unpredictable Cornish weather. Brown Willy is Cornwall’s highest point at 419m (1,375ft). From the car park at Camelford, head south, across the De Lank river, to the top of Brown Willy. The round trip takes about three hours.
Fun things to do
Take a trip on Bodmin and Wenford Railway
Go back in time in one of the vintage locomotives on the Bodmin and Wenford Railway. From Bodmin General change at Boscarne Junction for the Camel Valley cycle route or Bodmin Parkway (change at Colesloggett for forest trails through Cardinham Woods).
Play pooh sticks and picnic at Bowithick Bridge
This picturesque spot is home to a partially destroyed, Grade II listed packhorse bridge from the early 1800s on the northern parts of Bodmin Moor. Play pooh sticks, marvel at the moorland ponies, have a picnic and breathe in that fresh Cornish air. With a place this pretty, there’s really no need to do anything else.
Stargaze at Siblyback Lake
In 2017, Bodmin Moor was designated an International Dark Sky Landscape, confirming its status as one of Cornwall’s star attractions and making it the first International Dark Sky Place in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). Venture out after dark to Siblyback Lake and you’ll be treated to thousands of stars.
Where to eat and drink
The Rising Sun, Altarnun
For good, unpretentious pub food, head for the tiny local Rising Sun at Altarnun on the northern edges of Bodmin Moor. The village has a higgledy-piggledy bridge and a stunning Norman church, known as the Cathedral of the Moor. It’s also featured in Daphne du Maurier’s Jamaica Inn (which you can visit nearby) as the home of a notorious vicar.
The London Inn, St Neot
This 400-year-old coaching inn is nestled in the pretty village of St Neot, on the southern edge of Bodmin Moor. It serves homemade, locally sourced food, lots of traditional Cornish ales and a cosy atmosphere, with open log fires. The pub’s beams are remnants of timber from old ships and it has a fun little skittles alley!
St Tudy Inn, St Tudy
The quiet and peaceful 15th-century St Tudy Inn is unassumingly upmarket. Head here for refined seasonal pub grub that heavily features Cornish produce and locally caught fish. The village is like its pub: serene, pretty and full of history.
The Blisland Inn, Blisland
Known for its quirky interior of beer mats and toby jugs, the Blisland Inn is not to be missed. With more than a handful of CAMRA (prestigious pub) awards to its name, the 19th-century, proper Cornish free house sits on the main square overlooking Blisland’s village green. Head here for cracking beer, great home-cooked food and a warm welcome.
Crow’s Nest Inn, Darite, Liskeard
On the east side of the moor, the Crow’s Nest Inn near Darite is perfect for families and dog walkers. The wonderful stone building offers beams, big fires and a sunny garden as well as a varied menu.
Feel inspired to explore Bodmin Moor? Check out these holiday cottages.