The insider’s guide to Newquay, Cornwall
If you thought Newquay was that ‘party town’, as famous for being a stag- and hen-do destination as it was the surfing capital of the UK, please take this opportunity to think again. Newquay has reinvented itself as a hub of a wholesome, outdoorsy culture – vegan cafes and cool coastal lifestyle shops are replacing grottier haunts, while locals skate or cycle everywhere and days are ended with a run on the coastal path or a sunset swim. Add in clean, stunningly beautiful beaches, world-class surfing and a thriving indie food scene and you have the recipe for a fantastic year-round Cornish beach holiday for families, surfers and storm watchers. Here’s our insider’s guide to the best that this new, improved Newquay has to offer.
1. The surfing is ideal for pros and beginners alike
Fistral beach is home to a number of national and international surfing competitions throughout the year, including Boardmasters (10-14 August) and it’s the perfect sport for experienced surfers as well as beginners. Learn to surf and hire boards and wetsuits all year-round with the Quicksilver Surf School. And while Fistral is certainly the most celebrated surfing spot in the UK, Newquay’s Watergate Bay and Towan Beach also offer some decent waves. If surfing isn’t your thing, Watergate is also popular for kitesurfing, windsurfing, kayaking and more. There’s a surf school at Lusty Glaze, too (lustyglazeadventurecentre.co.uk), where kids can also go on banana-boat rides, abseil and cross from one cliff to another by tightrope.
2. There are eight beaches to choose from
Newquay does beaches oh-so-well. Golden sand, clear blue waters, fabulous waves, loads going on if you want it or tranquility if you don’t, there’s a Newquay beach to suit you.
Crantock
Try the wide golden expanse of Crantock for sand castles and surfing.
Fistral
Head to action-packed Fistral to surf, browse FatFace and Ann’s Cottage for beachwear and pick up some lunch at Rick Stein (great fish curries) or The Stable for pizza.
Towan
Another great place to surf, Towan is easy to get to from the town centre down a steeply sloping hill. The beach is bordered to the west by the harbour and at the east by the Island, a towering rocky outcrop, connected to the mainland by a suspension footbridge.
Great Western
Nestled between Towan and Tolcarne beaches, Great Western has a more understated and laid-back feel. Known as the local’s beach, Great Western is where Newquay’s surf culture began. The Great Western Beach Complex offers a surfy restaurant and bar as well as surf lessons and boards.
Tolcarne
Known for its luxury beach huts (available to hire), Tolcarne is a great option for a family day out. The crescent-shaped bay is set against a background of cliffs and joins up with its neighbours, Great Western and Lusty Glaze, at low tide. The beach has soft sand, easy swimming, fun family surfing, exciting rock pools to explore at low tide, sea fishing and the unique ‘Tolcarne Wedge’ for boogie boarding. There’s a shop to stock up on all your beach essentials, too.
Porth
Popular with families, quiet Porth beach is an expanse of flat golden sand. It’s safe to swim and you can walk around Porth Island.
Lusty Glaze
Privately owned Lusty Glaze is the cream of the crop – a horseshoe-shaped bay with soft white sand and bluer-than-blue water. Smaller waves mean it’s less crowded than Fistral so better for kids. The Lusty Glaze Beach Cafe serves coffee and cake all day until 4pm, pop-up restaurant events from the Pickled Chef and free weekly live music Sundowner Sessions.
Polly Joke
This super-cute and quiet beach is perfect for sunbathing with all of Newquay’s glamour and buzz just down the road. Park in Crantock village, and walk the coast path to the beach.
3. It has a fascinating history
… which is best learned about from the water. Newquay Activity Centre offers a two-hour heritage kayak tour. Sea kayaking allows you to experience the coast from a different perspective, paddling up to ancient rock faces that walkers and most tourists don’t see. Trace the Gazzle, a two kilometre stretch of historic Atlantic coastline, and explore the Tea Caverns, vast caves where local smugglers hid their booty of tea, brandy and cotton. Then return past the 14th-century Huer’s Hut, a small stone building where the ‘huer’ would watch for the telltale signs of pilchards; if he spotted them, he’d cry ‘heva heva’ and the fishermen would race into the sea with their nets.
4. It has transformed into a culinary hub …
As in days gone by, fish is still very much on the menu but there are other options, too. The coast provides fresh seafood while the strong surfing culture has inspired a mix of vegan and vegetarian restaurants. The Pavilion Bakery offers artisanal loaves and pastries or a good lunchtime crab sandwich and the Fish House does a fine line of upmarket but unfussy suppers. Try Kahuna for curry and noodles, and Gilmore’s for tacos and tequila. Swing by Sprout for a delicious homemade lentil dahl or a turmeric latte and the cosy Jam Jar for cute decor, vegan and gluten-free cakes and good coffee. More artisan coffee can be found at Box & Barber Coffeehouse. The Green Heart Cafe is a one-of-a-kind vegan and vegetarian spot that also serves as an art gallery for local creatives.
5 … and has plenty of unique, hipster shops and bars
Ignore the arcades as you wander through town, and instead seek out the independent shops and drinking establishments. Yes, there is still a Walkabout and a Wetherspoons, but they rub shoulders with Toast, a small wine and tapas bar, and Tom Thumb, a speakeasy bar, where the beards are long and the cocktails high end. The Good Lyfe is a plastic-free, ethical store that sells everything from homewares to lentils. Head to Married to the Sea, a surfy lifestyle boutique; The Wave Project which sells clothes and accessories for men, women, and raises money for ‘surf therapy’ – surf lessons to help people with mental health problems; and the uber-trendy Roo’s Beach.
Fancy seeing the alternative side to Newquay? Book your Cornish holiday cottage here.