The insider’s guide to Downderry, Cornwall

There’s nothing like salty air, the sound of waves and a sea view to lift the soul. Staring out onto the horizon is a magical way to revive oneself. You can get all this and more in the pretty Cornish seaside village of Downderry, once noted by the Sunday Times as one of the best places to live on the coast. Situated in the forgotten pocket of south-east Cornwall on cliffs that slide gracefully down to the sea, unspoilt Downderry is quiet and unassuming. Lesser known than its bustling neighbours of Looe and Polperro, it’s the perfect place to hide out in a Cornish holiday cottage. Its lovely stretch of sand and shingle beach is never mobbed, even on the hottest days, making it a wonderfully peaceful holiday destination, but there’s plenty to do nearby, should you feel like exploring. Here, we give you everything you need to know to enjoy this lovely corner of Cornwall.

There are beaches galore

Downderry beach is the perfect sheltered spot to enjoy the sunshine and sea air. At low tide, there are loads of rockpools to explore with a shrimping net and bucket. Stroll for five minutes across the mile-long stretch of sand to Seaton beach but don’t get stranded – remember to check the tide times before you set off. Seaton also has a countryside park with riverside and woodland walks, so there’s plenty to see and do. The eastern end of Downderry beach is trickier to get to, and involves scrambling down a steep cliff path – it’s very secluded and popular with naturists. At the main beach, parking, toilets, a pub and a cafe are all close by. This part of the coast is also home to many more bays including Talland, and Millendreath, Portwrinkle, Tregantle and the numerous sandy coves at Whitsand Bay are fewer than 15 minutes’ drive away.

Four-legged friends are welcome

Unlike most Cornish beaches, Downderry welcomes dogs all year round! No more worrying about leaving your pup in your Downderry holiday cottage in the warmer months, pooches are able to play with the rest of the family on the beach or enjoy bracing walks on the South West Coast Path come winter. 

You can try surfing

If you happen to be visiting when there’s a southerly swell and the winds are right, Downderry Beach is a great place to ride the waves. It’s much less populated than some of the nearby beaches so you’ll be free to enjoy the water in peace. Need some coaching? Head to Adventure Bay Surf School near Whitsand Bay to hire boards and wetsuits and book lessons.

Discover shipwrecks while snorkelling

The wreck of the Gypsy, the sister ship to the Cutty Sark, is resting under a bed of seaweed not far from the shore line. She became stranded on the reef off Downderry beach in 1901, while bound from Chile to Plymouth, and was subsequently blown apart by explosives because she had become a hazard to local fishing vessels. Parts of the wreck are strewn over a large area in about 7 to 8 metres of water. The wreck, as well as the reef, make for fascinating snorkelling on a clear, sunny day. The areas around Coldeadon Point and off Bass Rock are great, too.

Go bouldering at Downderry beach

Cornwall is famous for its sea cliffs and is a popular destination for rock climbers but south-east Cornwall has the widest variety of climbing styles. The south coast from Falmouth to Plymouth may be off the radar of most climbers but it hides major cliffs and a wealth of bouldering (free climbing without ropes) at Downderry. Walk eastwards along the beach for half a kilometre to the rock climbing area, where you’ll find more than 30 climbs including Buried Treasure, The Promontory, The Wave, The Cave, Long Rock Climb and The Queen of Rock.

Eat delicious vegetarian food at Summink Different

Summink Different is a real find – a small, cosy vegetarian cafe in Downderry. It serves a varied menu of vegetarian and vegan options, as well as a variety of cakes and bakes. Curry nights include delicacies such as southern Indian mixed veg dahl with coconut yogurt, or head there for lunch and opt for a halloumi or falafel wrap, cheese toastie or black bean burrito. It’s also big on bread: choose from sourdough baguettes, muffins, focaccia, wholemeal, olive or roasted garlic and cheese sourdough and bordelaise. There are lots of coffee and tea options and the owners are very knowledgeable about dietary choices and happy to adapt anything.

Take in the view at the Inn on the Shore

Look out to sea while enjoying delicious food and drink at the dog-friendly Inn on the Shore, a charming coastal pub right on Downderry beach. 

This soul-soothing seafront pub offers a classic menu coupled with local craft beverages in a stylish setting. The alfresco terrace is the perfect oasis to absorb panoramic views from Rame Peninsula to Looe Island. Another pub, the Smugglers Inn, can be found at Seaton. The traditional establishment serves hearty pub classics and seasonal dishes and you can buy snacks and ice creams from the Smugglers Shack, maximising your time on the beach in warmer weather.

Discover Looe and beyond

The bustling fishing town of Looe is six miles to the west, and less than 10 miles in the other direction are the pretty villages of Kingsand and Cawsand, where you can catch a ferry to explore the historic Devon city of Plymouth, with its stunning seafront, dockyard and barbican. The dinky harbour of Polperro and its picturesque fishermen’s cottages are 10 miles to the west – a lovely day out. 

Downderry is a must for history buffs

History lovers should head inland to the village of St Germans, which is less than 15 minutes’ drive from Downderry. Located on the River Tiddy, it’s home to Port Eliot House and Gardens, a stunning Grade I-listed priory and house, which was remodelled by Sir John Soane in the 18th century. The 100 acre Repton-landscaped gardens are now open – walk, play and picnic or explore the vast rhododendron garden, maze, bowling green, orangery, arboretum and magnificent view of the estuary, not to mention the majestic St Germans viaduct stretching over it. Or, walk the Rame Head heritage coast. The area was crawling with Roundheads, Cavaliers and their spies between 1642 and 1646 when the parliamentary garrison of Plymouth was besieged by royalists.

Walking the wonderful Cornish Celtic Way

We’ve all heard of the South West Coast Path. Downderry is a great place to walk down to Looe via Seaton, Bodigga Cliffs and Millendreath or up to Rame Head and Kingsand and Cawsand beyond. Not so well known is the Cornish Celtic Way: a long-distance walking route that’ll take you away from many of Cornwall’s over-visited spots. The 125-mile trail joins existing paths, bridleways and back roads from sleepy St Germans on the River Tiddy to Downderry, before taking the coast path – further-flung sections of which are wonderfully quiet – all the way to Polruan at the mouth of the River Fowey. 

Your Downderry cottage is a great base from which to get to know this stunning part of Cornwall. Browse our selection of Downderry holiday cottages here.